How Often Should I Change The Oil In My Classic Car?

 

If you own a classic car, you’ll probably find yourself doing a lot of maintenance work because of how old your vehicle is. One of the biggest forms of maintenance anyone can do for their classic car is changing the oil. People often wonder how often they need to change their oil in their classic car because they don’t drive them that much which makes their rules a little different from normal cars.

So, how often should I change the oil in my classic car? When it comes to your classic car, you should change the oil every six months or every 3,000-5,000 miles, which ever comes first. Because classic cars are older, their maintenance schedules are different from other vehicles and require more frequent oil changes.

I have rebuilt and owned several classic cars and have often found myself wondering this very question. I’ve done extensive research, and through my own trial and error I have been able to pinpoint the best and healthiest ways to maintain your classic car’s oil and engine life.

What Happens To The Oil In Your Classic Car

Oil is a vital part of a classic car’s system. Without it, the engine would cease to function and you would find yourself in a very expensive rut. That’s why oil maintenance is so important.

Owning a classic car is an extremely rewarding experience. However, most people who own a classic car don’t drive them all too often aside from the occasional car show, cruise-in, or mini road trip. Because classic cars are older, they’re less reliable and tend to break down a lot more frequently. The main reason people love having them is because of the way they look and to show them off to other people. They bring a pride of ownership that other vehicles don’t do.

Because classic cars aren’t driven as often, they mostly sit either in the driveway, garage, or carport. People often make the mistake in thinking that because they don’t drive their classic car very often, they don’t need to change the oil that often either. If it’s not being used, why replace it? The fact is, oil continues to break down whether it’s being used or not. In fact, if you let your car sit for longer periods of time between rides, it can actually speed up the break down process of oil.

Water vapor is likely diluting the oil while it sits in addition to the oil naturally breaking down. In most cases, the few miles that are put on a classic car per year are usually short-distance, around town driving. This kind of driving doesn’t let the engine and oil get to a high enough temperature to evaporate the water vapor that gets inside, so over time the oil becomes diluted.

The mixture between the diluted oil and the engine running a bit more rich because it’s not warmed up completely can create a form of sludge and possible corrosion, which can ultimately lead to some damage to the engine.

You may check your oil or even change your oil at the suggested intervals and see that the oil looks perfectly fine and be less motivated to change it as frequently in the future. While oil can still look golden in color when you change it every six months, that doesn’t mean there aren’t hidden elements and build-ups inside that are unhealthy for your classic car.

Changing your oil every six months or every 3,000 – 5,000 miles will ensure the best life for your engine. An oil change really isn’t that expensive any way, especially if you do it yourself. Give yourself the peace of mind and insurance that your classic car can live the longest life possible.

The Best Type Of Oil To Use

If you are maintaining a regular routine of oil changes, the type of oil you use isn’t as important, though it can certainly help.

Every classic car is different, especially if they have been rebuilt. Many classic cars have the original engine in them which would obviously give them high miles. Other classic cars have new or newer engines placed in them. Newer engines are okay using whatever the manufacturer recommends. High mileage engines should typically use a high-mileage synthetic oil. Synthetic oil is designed to navigate the extra lubrication protection a high mileage engine may need.

The SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) number or code that you find on the type of oil you get is an important number you need to pay attention to because every engine requires a different number. 5W-20 or 10W-30 are the most common type. It will usually say on the engine oil cap what SAE number you will need with your oil.

How To Change The Oil

A lot of classic car owners prefer changing the oil on their car themselves, especially if they were the ones who rebuilt the car. Changing the oil is a fairly simple process and can easily be done by someone who has never done it before.

If you have low clearance under your car and you need it raised, make sure you use reasonable and reliable means to do so, such as using strong jacks.

First, you’ll need to locate the drain plug which is located under the engine at the bottom of the oil pan. It’s a large bolt. You’ll need to put a large container underneath it to let the oil run into. Turn the drain plug and let all the oil drain, about 10 – 20 minutes.

Next, locate where your oil filter is. It is usually located somewhere underneath the engine and close to the oil pan. Unscrew the oil filter. You may have some residual oil leak out, so make sure that there is a container underneath it.

Replace the drain plug and place in the new oil filter. Pour all but one quart of engine oil into the engine. Turn the car on and let it run for a few minutes, turn it off, then add the last quart of oil. Check the dip stick often after to make sure you have the right amount of oil. Overfilling an engine with oil can be equally as harmful as under-filling.

You can get the correct oil and filter at any auto parts store. The store clerk will be able to look up the right equipment you need.

More info: www.classicautoadvisors.com

Car Detailing Tips

 

 Over the years we see an awful lot of cars at car shows and neighborhood cruise nights.

We surfed the internet and asked a lot of questions to the various car owners with top quality cars, and found that the only way to rise to the top of the heap among all the other nice cars out there is to be absolutely obsessive about detailing a car.

 When the rubber meets the road attention to detail and frequency of a proper cleaning makes the job a lot easier.

 We hope you will pick up a few pointers you can use to keep your own car at the top of its game.

 The cardinal rule of detailing: "The final finish is 90 percent in the preparation."  That rule applies to most everything in car restoration.

 

·       READ THE DIRECTIONS. Every product is different, and how you apply it can mean the difference between a satisfying experience and a huge letdown. Take a minute and read the back of the package.

                                          

·       Use the two-bucket method, and you will never go back. Get yourself two buckets, and fill one with plain rinse water, and one with your soap and water solution. As you are washing, rinse your wash mitt or brush in the rinse bucket before you pick up soapy water. It will float the grit out of your mitt and not grind it back into the paint.

                            

·       Be organized so that everything you need for a particular job is laid out in a place where you can reach it. We use a wheeled cart to lay out all our supplies so that we can roll it around the garage a bit easier.

 

·       Clay bars have been the secret domain of pro detailers and body shops for years. Many detailers told us that as long as you start with the least aggressive clay and keep the painted surface lubricated with a spray detailer (even a mild solution of carwash and water will work), there's nothing you can do to harm your paint. You will feel it take the surface contaminants right off the paint.

                      

·       Here is what we mean when we say, "swirl marks." They appear when a fine bit of grit is placed between your wash mitt, wax applicator or chamois cloth and the painted surface. Removing them requires patience, some swirl remover and a dual-action buffer.

                    

 

·       For deeper swirl marks, you are going to have to reach out for industrial solutions. If you cannot find a dedicated swirl remover at your local parts store, check your phone book for an auto body supply store in your area.

 

·       Wipe the glass in vertical strokes on the outside, and horizontal strokes inside. That way, if you have a streak, you will know what side of the glass it is on. Old timers hint that they use newspaper to wipe the windows down; and never paper towels.

 

·       There are three basic levels of wheel cleaners on the market today,  which range from least aggressive to most aggressive. Read the directions and know what you are about to spray on your wheels. And do not forget that whatever you are spraying on the wheels is also going to be sprayed all over the brake calipers, rotors and suspension parts, too. Better to start cleaning your wheels with nothing more than carwash soap and water and work your way up.

 

·       Stainless steel trim can get seriously oxidized from years from acid rain and other contaminants. We found that a bit of Mag and Aluminum Wheel polish, and a wad of #00 steel wool work well. Be sure to try it on an inconspicuous area, though, like on the car next to yours.

 

·       Places where you rest your arm or hand (like your steering wheel, shift knob, or armrest) are guaranteed to be the nastiest places in your interior. We hit it with a heavy-duty interior cleaner and scrubbed it lightly with a toothbrush.

  

·       Whenever you use a harsh (usually marked "Heavy Duty") interior cleaner, be sure to apply something afterward that has some UV protection.

 

·       Mark your microfiber towels to indicate what they are used for. Mark several with "G" for "Glass" and do not use them for anything else. Do not even wash them with your other towels because wax will impregnate itself into the fibers and you will never get them to clean the glass the same way.

 

·       WD-40 or a similar lubricant is an excellent bug and tar remover. Just be sure to re-wax any portion of the car you cleaned using such lubricant.

                                

·       For interior cleaning, use a solution of six parts water and one-part Woolite.

                                 

 

·       Sap can be removed with a little isopropyl alcohol from the medicine cabinet. It will take some rubbing compound and a buff to get that spot out. Better to carry some spray detailer and a microfiber towel with you and take care of it immediately.

 

·       If you are a burn out maven and love to smoke up the rear tires, here is a suggestion. Many old school hot-rodders use Vaseline on the rear quarter panels to make the tar and rubber easier to clean from the body panels.

 

·        Lastly, as a number of auto body painters have told us that water is the enemy,  limit the number of car washes you do. Try using the dry wash products and micro-fiber towels to clean your car regularly. This will minimize the number of times a full water wash will be necessary.

 

This is just a drop in the proverbial bucket of tips out there to improve the curb appeal of your prized ride.